Turkey Box Call Kit Complete > Turkey Box Calls Kits
Turkey Box Call Kits are one of our most popular-selling hunting call products!
If you are a do-it-yourselfer or enjoy woodworking, here's the opportunity to build your own 7" turkey box call, similar to our Sweet Water Call. Simple in design, and it is so easy to assemble!
You will be able to glue it, chalk the lid, assemble the call, and talk turkey in no time. Leave it natural for a very inexpensive box call, or be as creative as you wish. Varnish, paint, write on it, wood-burn designs, hand-carve or decorate it as you choose. All the pieces are cut out, sanded, and ready to assemble.
This call makes a great father-son project, a youth group project, or a unique handcrafted gift.
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Description / Turkey Box Call Kit Complete > Turkey Box Calls Kits
We have sold these popular kits to professional call makers, individuals, church groups, and even several FFA high school classes for fundraiser projects. The calls for the Brooksville, FL, Sr. FFA class were engraved with the school name and FFA logo. Students autographed the calls and sold 13 of them at an annual benefit auction.
The calls have a walnut base and popular sides. Choose either a cherry or a walnut paddle. Select a paddle using the drop-down box below. If you want to combine cherry and walnut, make one selection, add it to the shopping cart, then return to add the next selection.
For engraving, the cherry paddle is the most popular one that we sell.
Be sure also to check out our new Turkey Slate Call Kit, or click here
Assembly Instructions for the Sweet Water Turkey Box Call Kit.
Glue the two mounting blocks to each end clamp and let them dry. Then glue the two sides (Sounding Boards) together with wood glue and clamp them until the glue is dry. Just a thin coat on both sides of the mounting block ends and a slight drop in a couple of spots along the grooved slots is all you will need, just enough to secure the sides so they will not rattle. Excess glue is difficult to remove if it oozes out of the grooves. Wipe off excess glue before it dries. If you plan to stain after assembly, use a wet towel to ensure all glue is removed before it dries. Use a damp towel wrapped around the end of a flat-head screwdriver to clean excess glue from the inside edges and grooved slots. Once wood glue penetrates the surface and dries, it will not take stain, thus you will be able to see where the glue was left behind in the final finish.
If a pilot hole is not already present, one must be drilled to secure the screw that holds the paddle. This is to prevent you from cracking the mounting blocks. Measure the backset to the center of the hole in the paddle, it should be ½” then center that distance from side to side on the end blocks and mark the center. Use a punch to make a small dent so the drill bits do not wander. Start with a 3/8” bit and drill down only 1/8” This is where the spring will sit. Take a 1/8” bit and drill straight down ¾” this is the screw pilot hole. Recommend doing this on a drill press and using flat-bottomed pilot-end wood bits, if available. Use a square-end screwdriver and hand-tighten only. Before screwing the paddle, insert the spring from the kit under the paddle. When the paddle is adjusted correctly, it will float on top of the spring and sit level, balanced across the arches of the sounding boards.
After the call is finished and ready to tune, use the small, half-round section of chalk from the kit to rub it on the bare-wood contact surface on the bottom of the paddle. Add more chalk, then lightly sand the tops of the sounding board to roughen them until you reach the desired level of turkey talk. If you need more chalk, use the type the kids use on the driveways (Brown is the best color). Do not use chalkboard chalk, as some of it may contain wax.
Engrave, stain, and finish as you wish; disassembling it allows you to stain the walnut and leave the popular sides natural, or vice versa. Most finish it with a clear varnish or lacquer. As with all wood finishing, a light sanding or use of steel wool between coats is recommended, followed by blowing off the dust and then using a tack rag to achieve a professional, smooth finish.
Again, you will want to leave the bottom of the paddle's contact surface unfinished and the tops of the side sounding boards, where the paddle makes contact, unfinished. This can be accomplished by masking those areas or using a very light coat around them, then sanding back to bare wood.




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